This article is informative, especially when giving respected chefs like Colicchio and Batali there dues. Speaking of dues, let's take a look at the Batali reference:
“As a diner, the idea of me chewing 17 bites of one thing and another 17 bites of another is absolutely boring, and not how I want to eat,” said the chef Mario Batali. “At the lower end, people are looking for options.” Two of his New York restaurants, Otto and Casa Mono, have no main courses at all.
Otto is definitely more of a "share all" sort of dining experience with really loud music and a really cool bar, but there's no way that this idea isn't driven by, (guess what?), money.
It's a fact that restaurants monitor via computer spreadsheets and tally programs which of their items they are selling the most of. Looking at the numbers, it makes sense that week after week, if you change your starters, they'll continue to sell because they are more of sought after commoddity than a larger, pricier entree. So, let's abolish the entree, and why not boost our sales on dishes that are easier to prepare, produce, and consume. It makes sense. The fire time for most apps is significantly less than the care produced of most entrees, even in the most high-volume establishments. These small plates, starters, entrees, etc. are faster, unique, and tasty. I love them, but not at the expense of the entree. There are times when a big bowl of pasta, a well prepared fish or pork tenderloin are just what I'm in the mood for. Not all diners have the stomach for a sampling of small plates to suffice for their meal.
I love the social aspect of dining that the author mentions, but couldn't agree more with the Hamilton quotation at the end, that a meal is only as good as the sum of it's parts -- or as she put it, appreciating a meal is like listening to a full album, not just two of it's songs.
Trends may come and go, but the entree ought to always remain. It's always been there. It receives the most care and is usually the highest quality piece of your dining experience. Pass some of it around the table if you must, but the pairing of protein, starch and vegetable ought to remain on everyone's table. Appetizers are great, and in fact essential. In some social cases, a meal full of appetizers is appropriate, I admit this.
Well, maybe I'm just a traditionalist. Slow food, I say, not just fast food.